One of the most promising of a new wave of wineries in Central Otago, originally established in 1992 and now made in a modern winemaking facility by Matt Dicey. The four partners, including Matt’s father, Robin Dicey, own some 32 ha of vineyard with further vines leased. This gives scope for small amounts of single-vineyard interpretations as well as blended examples. Pinot Noir is the star wine with the estate version from Bannockburn fruit continues to improve, adding more weight and density than previously seen. The widely sourced Roaring Meg is relatively simple and in a fruit driven style. Several single vineyard examples are also now made of a number of varieties. Small volume Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are stylish with better structure than previously. Pinot Gris is a lively, fruit-driven example; a Mansons Farm version is late-harvested. Riesling is made in different versions, varying both in origin and the degree of sweetness.
Mt Difficulty Central Otago www.mtdifficulty.co.nz
Mt Difficulty partnership Felton Road, Cromwell, Central Otago
Tel: 03 445 3445 Fax: 03 445 3446
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If not one of the out and out stars of the region, Mudhouse has established a consistent and reasonably priced range of varietals since the first vintage in 1996. Grapes are sourced both from estate vineyards in Marlborough, the Waipara Valley and Central Otago as well as from other growers. Winemaking consultancy comes from roving winemaker Matt Thomson and wineries are now in operation not only in Marlborough but also in Waipara. Whites are attractive with reasonable structure and good depth and intensity, particularly in the Chardonnay. However Pinot Noir comes across as the real focal point, with a lovely black cherry and savoury intensity in the Central Otago Estate example. There are also now a number of Single Vineyard releases from Estate sites.
Neudorf stood for fine quality in the Nelson region when neighbouring Marlborough was a fraction of the size it is now. Yet while Marlborough has expanded rapidly wine quality in Nelson has been advanced by Neudorf and just a few others dedicated to maximising the quality of the fruit in their vineyards. Moderately high densities and relatively low yields play a part in producing wines with good concentration but which aren’t overworked in the winery. There is a fine Sauvignon Blanc from local Moutere fruit. A rich, complex Moutere Chardonnay has been successful too and is a good deal better than most Marlborough examples. Sometimes showing a botrytis influence, it is deep, powerful and if not subtle can be impressively complex with a little age. A second Chardonnay is more widely sourced, while a perfumed Moutere Riesling with floral and mineral aromas has been consistently good. Pure, silky Pinot Noir has become a Neudorf speciality, the fine Moutere example surpassed by a Moutere Home Vineyard version. A little Pinot Gris has also been made along with a well priced additional Pinot Noir Tom’s Block.
Pinot Noir and Syrah are the main thrust of production at this expanding organic estate in Martinborough. Pinot, especially in the top Fraser Estate and Blue Rock bottlings, is ripe, rich and fleshy with something of a Pommard-like strength. A tendency to slightly overripe fruit and the use of 100% French oak give the wines a distinctive stamp but they are nonetheless very good. Syrah is in the same mould with lots of extract; it needs a little more refinement but is promising too. A Cabernet Franc comes from the Blue Rock Vineyard as well. Sauvignon Blanc is a good Martinborough example and Riesling and Pinot Gris are also made.
Martinborough Vineyard built an international reputation following the recruitment of Larry McKenna as full-time winemaker. From his first vintage in 1986 he set about making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from fully ripe grapes of the highest possible quality. His success brought acclaim for the region as a whole; its free-draining soil and particularly dry mesoclimate had been recommended in a scientific study and this originally led to the company’s establishment by Duncan Milne. Despite a tendency to over-extraction in the Reserve in the mid-1990s, the underlying fruit quality of the Pinot Noir has generally been very good, developing impressive texture and a stylish complexity with 3–4 years’ age or more. Larry McKenna left to develop his own project in 1999 (ESCARPMENT). Current releases now come from winemaker Paul Mason, who has worked in Europe as well as New Zealand. The wines show a gentler touch than of old with the usual flavour complexity. The Pinot Noir has a real sauvage fruit character, impressive length and a refined structure. A second Pinot, Te Téra is also very impressive. An occasionally released reserve, Marie Zelie is very pricy (£H). Also showing increasing refinement, Chardonnay was previously bold, oaky and structured with intense, ripe peachy/ melony fruit and depth but improving for at least 3 or 4 years. Riesling is full and intensely flavoured but better structured than many New Zealand examples. Riesling is also late-picked and partially botrytised for a richer, off-dry style called Manu. Pinot Gris, unusual in being partly barrel-fermented, and Sauvignon Blanc (Pirinoa Block) are also made and a separate estate Burnt Spur was established in 2003 and from which Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc are grown and the wines offer decent value.
The Miltons are leading New Zealand proponents of biodynamics and run the leading winery in the Gisborne region, where most of the vineyards are in the hands of the big producers. Endeavouring to produce ‘natural’ wines, the Milltons have succeeded admirably in making whites of good fruit richness and intensity. The warm but humid Gisborne autumns favour the development of botrytis and the wines are often characterised by the extra intensity and flavours this brings. From around 20 ha (across the Riverpoint, Opou, Te Arai and Naboth’s vineyard sites) there has been real success with three varieties in particular: Chenin Blanc, Riesling and Chardonnay. Chenin Blanc has been the country’s best since the late 80s and the Riesling has rarely been surpassed, but there is a purity and intensity to the fruit in all three wines. More recently, a Viognier and a Gewürztraminer have been made. Late-harvested ‘Special Bunch Selection’ versions of Riesling and Gewürztraminer are also produced as is some red, including a Pinot Noir. A red blend, Cosmo red as well a Chenin and a Chardonnay are made under the very affordable (£B) Crazy by Nature label and a number of premium releases coming from the Naboth site and labeled Clos de Ste. Anne (£E). Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Noir and Syrah are all released.
From modest beginnings in 1992, this husband-and-wife operation now makes a fine small range from vineyards either owned or leased. Much of the land includes vines over 20 years old. Part is on the original Martinborough terrace (including what used to be the Chifney vineyard) as well as a part on terraces to the south of Martinborough. The wines are made by the Australian-trained Strat Canning and include decent examples of ripe-fruited Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, the last with a rosewater intensity in a medium-dry style. Better, though, is a very ripe yet almost Meursault-like Chardonnay with good purity, breadth and concentration. Pinot Noir is subject to a lengthy pre fermentation maceration and the Home Block has a smoky plum and cherry/ berry fruit intensity with a forest-floor aspect. It is full and quite fleshy, with good weight, breadth and a supple structure. A second label Pinot Noir Rivers Edge is also now made. Some Chenin Blanc and a traditional method sparkler La Michelle are also made.
The finest privately owned estate in Marlborough produces five outstanding varietals from its own well-established vineyards. For many years the grapes had been sold to others before production under the Isabel label commenced in 1994; almost immediately it became the source of, arguably, New Zealand’s finest (certainly in the top three or four) Sauvignon Blancs. If less established than CLOUDY BAY it has been more consistent over recent vintages. Early vintages showed unprecendented structure and concentration but more recently there has been greater expression and refinement including a hint of mineral and smokiness. It can be drunk young or with a little age. The wines come only from estate vineyards planted at around twice the average density, accounting at least in part for the extra intensity and concentration. Pinot Noir usually impresses with vivid plum, cherry and raspberry flavours and a savoury complexity, with a promising texture and breadth. Chardonnay has been exciting but not consistently so: at its best it is intense without becoming syrupy and has good dimension and depth. A bright, crunchy Riesling shows typical Isabel fruit intensity including limey, citrus and stone fruit flavours. The Pinot Gris, with an attractive pear and quince fruit, is one of the better New Zealand examples. Noble Sauvage, a botrytised Sauvignon Blanc, is made when conditions are particularly beneficial.
Jane Hunter remains one of the best-known personalities in the New Zealand wine industry, having produced some of Marlborough’s best wines for two decades. The wines, show a harmony, a charm and a gentler character when compared with some of Marlborough’s brasher efforts. Sauvignon Blanc in two versions has always been the focus of production. If the regular unoaked version doesn’t show quite the structure or intensity of some of the newer top examples, there is a very fine ripe fruit depth, good concentration and the wine is consistently long and stylish. The Kaho Roa version has always shown a rare deft touch when integrating a gentle oak structure and creaminess with a, ripe tropical fruit intensity. The perfumed raspberry and cherry Pinot Noir is also a good expression of its fruit if missing the intensity or concentration of others. The sparkling wine is also most attractive: well structured, not hugely complex but with a, fresh and ripe fruit intensity to it. A little Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is also made along with an unusual Breidecker (a Muller-Thurgau and Chancellor or Seibel crossing).
The wines from the Herzog winery are now labelled Hans Herzog in Australasia and simply Hans in other markets as a result of action by a Californian winery. As immigrants from Switzerland Hans and Therese Herzog are new on the Marlborough scene but have already made considerable impact with tiny quantities of handmade reds. With considerable winemaking experience to draw upon, the philosophy is for unfined, unfiltered wines from low yielding, hand picked grapes coming entirely from their own modest biodynamically run 11 ha vineyard. Spirit of Marlborough is a Bordeaux-style red from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec roughly two-thirds Merlot. There is a cool component to the fruit and tannins again in but with time this contributes to a stylish, nuanced flavour complexity. Much fuss has been made about an unusual Montepulciano (which includes 15% Cabernet Franc). Ripe and characterful, this shows plenty of Montepulciano flesh and depth as well as good intensity, concentration and length given the relative immaturity of the vines. The wine will unquestionably benefit from 3 or 4 years patience. Young vines also limit the potential of a Pinot Noir yet it already shows a seductive immediacy on the palate. Small amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and even Viognier, with something of a cult following, are also made. The Viognier is very ripe and exotic, Pinot Gris intense and concentrated. The winery restaurant is establishing a similarly enviable reputation.
Grove Mill has grown rapidly since being established in 1988. While many of the grapes are supplied under contract, a series of vineyards have been either leased or bought outright to increase the amount under the winery’s direct control. Since the first vintage the wines have delivered consistently ripe fruit and are characterised by their almost overwhelming fruit intensity and concentration. In the Sauvignon this is slightly at the expense of greater expression and complexity. A partially barrique-fermented and oak-aged Chardonnay, like several of the better examples in the region, can be a touch overdone, not lacking for weight or structure but somewhat dominated by secondary, winemaking-given characters (including the oak) at the expense of a clearer expression of the fruit. A Pinot Gris displays less varietal expression than some but nonetheless shows good richness and balanced acidity, while Pinot Noir wants for a purer expression. Marginally pricier Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are released as Grand Reserve. Sanctuary, named for a wetland project that has been developed at the Waihopai Valley vineyard, is a second label that includes Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. A second Pinot Gris is made under the Frog Haven label.
From humble beginnings in 1997 Greenhough has become a first class boutique operation. Despite a relatively low profile it brings a little more glamour to the relatively unsung Nelson region, now dwarfed in viticultural terms by Marlborough to the east. Owner and winemaker Andrew Greenhough makes all the wines to a high standard but like that other regional star NEUDORF has really excelled with Pinot Noir. A regular Nelson version always has good intensity and expression but can on occasion struggle for full ripeness. That from the Hope Vineyard shows added concentration, ripeness, depth and an expansive palate with a structure that only opens out fully with 4-5 years’ age. Chardonnay also excels from the Hope Vineyard with impressive texture and a finely detailed complexity with 3-4 years’ age. Riesling is fine too with impressive length and good ageing potential. A lightly floral, slightly exotic scented Sauvignon is well crafted with a certain restraint and structure that contrasts with the vitality and exuberance of Marlborough’s best examples. A Pinot Blanc from the Hope Vineyard is also now made.